Of Lost Treasures
It has returned — in perfect condition and in one piece! The world-renowned Florentine Diamond of the Habsburgs, set in a hat clasp that had belonged to Emperor Franz Stephan. With its dramatic and turbulent history, the jewel was originally owned by the Medici family and passed to Emperor Franz Stephan upon the extinction of the male Medici line. Eventually it came into possession of the Imperial Treasury in Vienna as part of the Jewels of the Private Imperial Household. At the end of 1918, Emperor Karl had it taken to Switzerland, where it remained for several years. Later the trail of the diamond vanished; it was believed lost, with rumours swirling that it had been stolen or even recut.
One of the best-kept secrets in the history of jewellery has recently been revealed. After more than 100 years, several of the legendary Habsburg jewels from the renowned Vitrine XIII have reappeared. Just this past summer, the Habsburg-Lothringen family informed Christoph Köchert that several of the pieces had been located in Canada, and asked him to examine and authenticate them. For more than 80 years, the House of Köchert served the Imperial Family in all matters concerning jewellery and precious gemstones — first as Imperial and Royal Court Jeweller, and later as Chamber Jeweller. Even after the fall of the monarchy, the long-standing and personal relationship between the two families endured. Aware of this special honour, it seemed only natural that the descendants of the last emperor would place their trust in the descendants of the former chamber jeweller – the emperor’s personal jeweller. Under strict confidentiality, the jewels of this spectacular rediscovery were carefully examined, and their authenticity was confirmed.
Along with the elation of identifying four Köchert pieces among the jewels, Christoph Köchert had the rare privilege of holding other jewels of extraordinary historical significance in his hands. Among them – in addition to the 137-carat Florentine diamond – is a truly exceptional timepiece: Empress Maria Theresia’s watch set within a massive emerald. The captivating piece was later reworked by the House of Köchert in the 1870s for Empress Elisabeth to complement her vine leaf parure, which was created at the same time by Alexander Emanuel Köchert, whose legendary emeralds also trace back to Maria Theresa.
Crafted in the shape of a pendant, the watch is embedded into a magnificent faceted emerald the size of a hen’s egg, and fitted with a light green, translucent hinged cover – also made of emerald. “The piece itself is simply breathtaking,” says Christoph Köchert. “There is nothing else like it in the world. Just imagine – an immense emerald with a clock set into it! And when you hear the history behind it, you can’t help but shiver in awe!
It’s always thrilling when imperial jewels from the House of Köchert resurface – such as the magnificent diamond brooch adorned with large Oriental drop-shaped pearls, whose original design drawing is preserved in the extensive Köchert archive. Two other remarkable pieces are a striking mesh brooch and a large, prominent hatpin, both reflecting the Hungarian national colours — green (emeralds), red (rubies) and white (diamonds). These pieces most likely date from the 1860s and are believed to have been commissioned in connection with the Hungarian coronation of Franz Joseph and Elisabeth.
Another highlight of the collection is a pocket watch once owned by Marie Antoinette. What makes this timepiece truly extraordinary is not only that it was crafted by Jean-Antoine Lepine — the unrivaled, world-renowned watchmaker to the French kings — but also that posed beneath its back glass cover is a lock of hair. “Whose hair it is — Marie Antoinette’s, her mother Maria Theresia’s, her husband Louis XVI’s, or one of her children’s — no one knows,” says Christopn Köchert. “And we likely never will. And that’s precisely what makes it so fascinating.”
The jewels of the legendary Vitrine XIII had been considered lost since the end of 1918. But now we know that they were intended to accompany Empress Zita on her journey into exile, fleeing from the Nazis to Canada. Shortly before her death, she stipulated that the whereabouts of the jewels should not be revealed until at least 100 years after Emperor Karl’s passing. To ensure the preservation of this historically and culturally significant ensemble for the future, the family has now placed the jewels in a foundation in Canada, where they are expected to be accessible to the public in the near future.