PRECIOUS METALS
Gold
We only ever use precious metals such as gold, silver, platinum and palladium (also a platinum metal) to produce our pieces of jewellery.
Fine (pure) gold is too soft to be processed into jewellery. For this reason, it is usually alloyed (mixed) with silver, copper or platinum metals. When doing this, the fine gold content of the alloy must not fall below certain statutory levels. In Austria, the alloys are 14k gold (in which 585 out of every 1,000 parts are fine gold) and 18k gold (750 out of every 1,000 parts fine gold)
Accordingly, hallmarking a piece of jewellery made of gold with the figure “750” or “585” signifies the fine gold content is the equivalent of either 750 out of every 1,000 parts (18k), or 585 out of every 1,000 (14k) respectively.
Essentially, the rule is this: the higher the fine gold content, the more valuable the material.
Platinum
In its own right, platinum is white with a greyish tint. Although it is more difficult to process than white gold, it boasts a reputation for being higher-quality. It has a higher specific weight than gold. As a result, jewellery made from platinum is heavier than that using white gold. Platinum alloying is also used to produce jewellery. Out of every 1,000 parts, 900 are fine platinum, and 100 parts additional metals. The fine content hallmark for platinum, therefore, is “900”.
Silver
Like fine gold, fine silver in its pure form is simply too soft for designing jewellery.
As a result, it is almost always mixed with copper. The main silver to be used is sterling silver, a silver alloy consisting of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. The fine content hallmark in this case will be “925”.
In the case of silver tableware, meanwhile, “835” silver is usually used.
Silver reacts to sulphur compounds in the air, forming a black-grey coating on the surface, a process also known as “oxidising”.
To prevent or delay this so-called “tarnishing”, jewellery made from silver is often rhodium-plated. Rhodium plating is the name given to the process of electroplating the jewellery with rhodium, a platinum metal.
PRECIOUS STONES
Diamond
Diamonds have been surrounded by countless myths and sagas for millennia, and are widely acknowledged as the most valuable of all precious stones. The aura of elementary interaction of the Earth’s forces associated with the stone’s natural formation process provide the foundation for its natural rarity and inherent exclusivity. While it can safely be presumed that man-made manufacturing methods could topple a ruler’s throne, the claim to authenticity that comes with ownership of a diamond remains literally and metaphorically unbreakable.
Named “Adamans” – the impregnable one – by the Greeks, a series of etymological detours over the centuries have eventually led to it being known as the diamond in modern times. Along with its unsurpassed hardness – it is 140 times harder to cut than the ruby or sapphire – the diamond differs in several ways from all other stones. Above all, there is the fact that it exists thanks to just one element, namely carbon. Then – and more appealingly to the beholder – there is its unique capacity to sparkle, the breathtaking result of the cut!
“I could have taken it for a fragment of broken glass and thrown it away,” said Edward VII when given the Cullinan, the world’s largest uncut diamond, as a gift.
Our ability to cut diamonds, first recognised in the mid-15th century, was destined to raise the stone to the heavens. If we look at a cut diamond with a magnifying glass for a little too long, however, then its hard lustre can begin to bring tears to our eyes. Humans have been captivated by its extraordinary light refraction, and the related “fire”, or gemstone dispersion, since time immemorial.
It is not just diamonds’ specific lustre that makes them so impressive, however, or their size. In certain cases, it is also their colour that makes them so unique and sought-after. Over time Indian Moguls, Louis XIV, Russian Tsars and English monarchs were all mesmerised by the stone. One might think for a moment of the Dresden Green Diamond acquired by Augustus the Strong, the blue Hope Diamond, or the Hapsburgs’ yellow Florentine Diamond. The fascination with these rare and valuable varieties remains unbroken: some of these stones, known nowadays as “fancy diamonds”, have achieved fairytale prices at auction in recent years.
Russia, South Africa, Namibia, Angola, Botswana, Congo, Sierra Leone, Australia, Canada and Brazil
10
Leo
The Ancient Greeks believed the diamond could render toxins ineffective, free the spirit from anxieties, and make its owner invincible.
Some diamond pieces
Ruby
The ruby has been the most mysterious precious stone since time immemorial, and has lost none of its fascination over the centuries. People believed steadfastly in their supernatural powers in ancient times. Later on, the rich and famous, from Maharajahs to Maria Antoinette and Hollywood divas, all became addicted to them, prizing above all the flattering way they would sparkle on the skin in candlelight. This also gave them the reputation of being a “stone of the evening”.
Together with its brother the sapphire, the ruby is one of the best-known and most elegant members of the exceedingly colourful corundum family of stones. Due to its rarity, the ruby has been considered an extremely valuable precious stone for centuries now. Sometimes it is even more expensive than the diamond: Cellini, famous goldsmith of the Renaissance, reported that people were paying up to eight times more for rubies than they were for diamonds at the time. Today, too, carat prices for top qualities have been rising continuously and steeply for years now, as large stones of outstanding quality are actually rarer than comparable diamonds.
The “pigeon blood” classification for deep, rich red stones with a light undertone of blue is without a shadow of a doubt the most valuable shade in the colour spectrum for rubies, which ranges from delicate pink tones through to dark purple. Rubies from Burma (Myanmar) are particularly popular with connoisseurs and lovers of this stone, enjoying the highest level of provenance and strongest demand.
Burma, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Madagascar
Corundum
Aries
The ruby is viewed as the stone of life, passion and love, and said to bestow dignity, recognition and power upon its owner. It is credited with bringing its wearer determination and confidence in a revitalising and strengthening way.
Some ruby pieces
Sapphire
The Ancient Persians were once convinced that the blue of the sky was simply one vast sapphire, on which the Earth stood. It may be that the roots of its reputation as the “stone of the day” also lie in this colourful coincidence. There’s little doubt, however – in contrast to the ruby – that the sapphire unfolds its most beautiful luminescent properties best in the daylight. Like the ruby – a close relation, mineralogically speaking – sapphires belong to the corundum family.
When we think of sapphires, we immediately tend to think of something deep-blue in colour, unfolding with a mysterious twinkle. The colour spectrum of the classic blue sapphire ranges from light blue to ink-blue, with a glowing cornflower blue considered the most highly-prized colour of all. The loveliest and best sapphires originate from Kashmir.
As well as the classic blue, sapphires can be found in a wide range of other bright colours, from yellow or pink through to violet and green. One highly valuable colour variant bears the poetic name Padparadscha, or “Dawn”. This special, orange-coloured sapphire offers unique blends of salmon-pink tones, and can fetch incredible prices internationally.
Even if clarity is a significant criterion in quality, of course, it is important to remember that not all kinds of inclusion are equally flawed. For example, deposits of fine rutile crystal can allow for what is known as “asterism”, when the stone features a six-pointed light star – and becomes a “star sapphire”, a precious stone with particular rarity value. As well as this, the visual appearance of inclusions can be used to prove where a stone was mined, and whether it has been heat-treated to improve the colour or is a (more valuable) untreated stone.
Sri Lanka, Burma, Thailand and Kashmir
Corundum
September
Taurus, Virgo, Libra, Pisces
Prized by mysticists as the stone said to keep our understanding clear and the heart free from cravings, protect us from unwelcome, intrusive love, and preserve the loyalty of true love. Thanks to this supposed capacity to raise human spirits, for example, the sapphire has been worn in Bishop’s rings since the 14th century, and has long been very popular for use as a stone in engagement rings thanks to its symbolism of pure, chaste love.
Some sapphire pieces
Emerald
There was just one source of emeralds to speak of in antiquity, buried deep in the deserts of southern Egypt. Despite this, the stones could be found throughout the ancient world, from markets in Babylonia to medicine cupboards in China and the observatories of Vedic astrologers. The emerald mines of Cleopatra, which were steeped in legend and continued to operate for 1,000 years, were thought to have been lost for five centuries, until they were rediscovered by the French mineralogist and explorer Frédéric Cailliaud in 1817. The exquisite stones weren’t just prized in Egypt, however, but also in Ancient Rome. Emperor Nero is said to have held emeralds in front of his eyes in an effort to protect himself from the dazzling sunlight in the Arena – sunglasses made from emeralds, you might say! Nero always had his eccentric side, of course.
Centuries later, when Spanish Conquistadores seized magnificent emerald jewellery from Inca and Aztec temples, it was not long before the sources of the stones in Colombia – where the best emeralds are found to this day – became accessible for Europe too.
The emerald is considered the most precious stone of the group of beryls, and along with the sapphire and ruby, is one of the three most valuable coloured stones. This is also shown in the fact that in numerous countries around the world, state and crown jewels are home to magnificent examples of this variety of stone. The Vienna Treasure Chamber, for example, contains an ointment jar 12 cm in size and weighing over 2,200 carats – which was cut from a single crystal.
It’s extremely rare to find totally clear emeralds, but if one does turn up with such top qualities, you can be pretty sure it’s a real rarity. This is because most stones have what is referred to as a “jardin”, a garden of more or less pronounced inclusions. These will often lend the stone a certain liveliness, and allow experts to conclude the stone’s country of origin and even the mine it came from.
Colombia, Afghanistan, Brazil, Madagascar, Pakistan, Namibia, Mozambique and Zambia
7,5-8
The emerald is considered the stone of truth, intuition and prophesying. From East to West, ancient cultures around the world would grind emeralds into powder to cure a variety of ailments ranging from poisonings to epilepsy, to scare off snakes and dragons, restore eyesight (as championed by Nero) and stimulate fertility. To this day, the Chinese crush emeralds of lower quality to be used for therapeutic purposes.
Some emerald pieces
PRECIOUS STONES
Agate
Agate has long been associated with human history, and together with jasper, was being used to produce hunting weapons and tools thousands of years ago. It was later discovered as a jewellery stone – in opulent signet ring engravings and gems, for example – and eventually also used to make artistic drinking vessels and works of art. Its variable, frequently striped, appearance can be traced back to the deposition of a range of minerals such as iron, manganese and chrome, as a result of which agate features exceptionally rich colouring. It has also been customary to colour agate using brines since time immemorial.
Germany, Brazil, Uruguay, Australia, China, Caucasus region and Mexico
6,5-7
Taurus, Capricorn
Agate is said to protect the wearer against evil and to strengthen one’s willpower. It was already being used as a lucky charm at the time of the Ancient Egyptians and Greeks. The stone is also said to have positive effects against sleeping disorders, as it reduces inner tension.
Some agate pieces
Andalusite
yellow-olive green, brownish-red
Spain, Australia, Brazil, Canada, Russia, Sri Lanka and USA
7,5 – 8
Amethyst
This unusual stone is exotic not just in name but also in nature. It has a summery blue through to turquoise-green appearance, lending it a fresh, youthful feel. Contrary to initial assumption, however, its name does not refer to its excavation site being in the Amazon; rather, it is associated with Alexander von Humboldt’s voyages of discovery in general. On one of his expeditions, the Prussian naturalist and explorer encountered indigenous women, living independently, who were wearing amulets featuring the unusual stone.
According to his own reports, the women, designated by him as “Amazons”, made such a deep impression on him that they were responsible for the naming of this stone.
Brazil, Madagascar, Zambia and Uruguay
7
February
The Greeks wore the amethyst not just to combat drunkenness, but also witchcraft and evil thoughts. It was said to have the power to protect against false friends, avert dangers and reverse bad thoughts.
Some amethyst pieces
Amazonite
This unusual stone is exotic not just in name but also in nature. It has a summery blue through to turquoise-green appearance, lending it a fresh, youthful feel. Contrary to initial assumption, however, its name does not refer to its excavation site being in the Amazon; rather, it is associated with Alexander von Humboldt’s voyages of discovery in general. On one of his expeditions, the Prussian naturalist and explorer encountered indigenous women, living independently, who were wearing amulets featuring the unusual stone.
According to his own reports, the women, designated by him as “Amazons”, made such a deep impression on him that they were responsible for the naming of this stone.
Sweden, Poland, Russia, Egypt, Ethiopia, Madagascar, Myanmar, Brazil, Canada and USA
Feldspar
6-6,5
Aquarius, Cancer
Amazonite is said to have a counterpoise effect, lend the wearer joie de vivre, and to help against headaches. The ancient Egyptians are also said to have viewed it as a sacred stone, which would have been worn as an amulet to ward off disease and snakebites.
Some amazonite pieces
Apatite
turquoish-blue to green
Brazil, India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mexico, Myanmar, South Africa and USA
Apatite
5
March
Sagittarius
This stone is said to counteract apathy and lethargy by imbuing the wearer with renewed motivation, optimism and determination, thereby strengthening self-confidence.
Some apatite pieces
Aquamarine
Legend has it that while playing with mermaids, sea horses carried off the aquamarine – the mermaids’ treasure – and took it off towards the light. Unsurprisingly, then, this stone takes both its colour and its name from the seawater (“aqua” being Latin for water, and “mare” for the sea). In mineral terms, it belongs to the group of beryls, which also includes the emerald. Far less flawed than this most precious of its related stones, the seawater-coloured beryl differs from the emerald by its considerably lower rarity value.
Dark aquamarines, which often reach the limit of sapphire blue, are far rarer and more sought-after than light stones, and significantly more valuable as a result. The most famous precious stones of this type come from the Santa Maria mine in Brazil.
Brazil, Afghanistan, Madagascar and Urals region
7,5-8
March
Aquamarine is considered the stone of serenity, lightness and pleasure, and to have the power to help us achieve harmony and well-being. As a result, it also is supposed to combat feelings of depression, increase self-confidence, and bestow far-sightedness, prudence and stamina upon its wearer. In partnerships, it is viewed as helpful in deepening love and loyalty.
Some aquamarine pieces
Beryl
The Ancient Greeks were convinced that beryl could improve their status and preserve love within marriage. They also realised that this precious stone was capable of refracting and deflecting light. Based on this capacity, convexly polished beryls were used to produce “reading stones” – the origin of the German word for reading glasses or spectacles, Brille.
The group of precious beryls includes all those colour varieties of the beryl group that are not green or light-blue, since despite being related mineralogically, these are classified separately as emeralds or aquamarines. Examples of stones that fall into the group of precious beryls include gold beryl, as does the light-pink morganite, which was named after the American financier and collector J. P. Morgan.
Afghanistan, Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Namibia and Zimbabwe
7,5-8
May
Taurus
Jews revered beryl as a magical stone said to consolidate one’s faith in God, and the Revelation of John, last book of the Bible, describes the stone as the eighth of the twelve foundation stones to be used in Jerusalem’s city wall. Benedictine abbess and Christian mystic Hildegard of Bingen also dedicated herself to the effects of beryl. It is said to help combat a variety of ailments, including travel fever and poor eyesight.
Some beryl pieces
Calcite
colourless to gold-yellow
USA, Brazil, Mexico and many other sites
Calcite
3
Also known as calcspar, calcite is said to have a healing effect on bones, from which its traditional German-language name, Beinbruchstein – “fracture stone” – derives. As well as this, it is said to have a positive effect on intellectual capacity, and help with memory and creativity.
Some calcite pieces
Carnelian
Carnelian was already being used in the ancient world to produce precious small works of art and magnificent gems. Although the stone continues to enjoy great popularity to this day, much of the carnelian produced nowadays is actually coloured and heat-treated agate. Natural carnelian shows a cloudy colour distribution in transmitted light, while coloured agate has a streaky tint.
One interesting cultural and historical example of the stone’s traditional use in signet rings is in the Luther rose, a seal cut in carnelian with Martin Luther’s crest, now on public display at the Green Vault in Dresden.
Brazil, India, Uruguay, Australia, Germany, Poland and Slovakia
6,5-7
September
Aries, Gemini, Virgo
Due to its blood-red colouring, the Ancient Egyptians viewed carnelian as the stone of life; it is mentioned in the Egyptian Book of the Dead, and played an important role in the burial rituals of the time. Hildegard von Bingen described the stone as also having a positive effect on the immune system, and it is said to this day to provide vitality.
Some carnelian pieces
Chalcedony
Although the name of this stone dates back to the ancient city of Chalchedon in Bithynia (modern Turkey), it has proven impossible to establish a more precise connection. Pliny the Elder, and later Albertus Magnus, use the designation, defining it in connection with minerals. Several of the so-called “microcrystalline quartzes” are classified under the designation today; as well as chalcedony itself, these include agate, chrysoprase, heliotrope, jasper, carnelian and onyx.
Brazil, India, Madagascar, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Sri Lanka and Uruguay
Group of microcrystalline quartzes
6,5-7
June
Blue chalcedony is said to bring inner peace and increase attentiveness, as well as strengthening rhetoric, creating self-confidence, and resolving inhibitions and anxiety in the wearer by increasing assertiveness.
Some chalcedony pieces
Chrysoprase
Back in the Middle Ages, chrysoprase was one of the most sought-after precious stones of its time, and to this day it is viewed as the most valuable variety of the chalcedony group, part of the quartzes. The high esteem in which chrysoprase has been held historically is demonstrated by its use in opulent decorative works to be found at St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague, Karlstein Castle – and later also Sanssouci Palace, at the behest of Frederick the Great, who deemed it his favourite stone. The stone’s luscious green colour, which also gives it its name, and its freshness mean it has remained hugely popular in jewellery down the ages.
Poland, Australia, Brazil, India, Kazakhstan, Russia and South Africa
6,5-7
May
Cancer, Virgo
In Ancient Egypt, chrysoprase was said to offer protection against dark forces and plagues. The Ancient Greeks believed it countered depression, and Hildegard von Bingen credited it with having an effect against epilepsy and poison.
Some chrysoprase pieces
Citrine
Although its lemon-yellow tones mean this stone was destined to be named after the fruit, its chromophoric substance (responsible for its colouring) is actually iron. The nuance of colours varies depending on where the stone originates, and on differing soil composition from place to place. Although naturally a pale yellow, the stone can range as far as reddish or brownish in colour, something which can also be influenced by the processing methods used.
Brazil, Madagascar, Argentina, Myanmar, Namibia, Russia and Spain
7
November
Taurus, Leo, Virgo
Legend has it that the citrine was worn by Caesar’s legions as a “breast stone” and a life-saver in battle. This is also the basis for its designation as a “life stone”.
Some citrine pieces
Coral
The genesis of the red marine plants was surrounded by myths and legends for many years. In his poem Metamorphoses, Ovid depicts the birth of corals out of the narrative of Medusa after she has been defeated by Perseus, and the blood from her head, now bereft of life, is transformed into glowing red coral “branches”. There’s little doubt that the question of whether coral is now a living thing, plant or mineral, has only added to our fascination with the mesmerising undersea plant since ancient times. Apparently alive when under water, but as hard as stone on land – this inconsistency in coral’s nature has always stimulated human imagination, allowing the belief to take root that the substance must be imbued with some kind of magical, healing powers. A sought-after collectors’ item oscillating between the products of nature and human creations in early modern art chambers, the small red branches were painstakingly processed by goldsmiths until they were unique works of art. Coral jewellery has a long tradition to draw upon, therefore.
The colour spectrum of red corals ranges from a delicate pink to salmon-coloured, through light red and medium red, to a dark “ox-blood” red. Coral is by no means just about red, however; the stone can also be found in colours such as white, blue and black, and is extraordinarily eye-catching.
Mediterranean, Red Sea, Canary Islands, Malay Archipelago, Japan and Hawaii
3-4
Taurus 21 April – 21. May
Cancer 22 June – 23 July
Libra 24 September – 23 October
The traditional association of red coral with Medusa’s blood led observers to conclude that this “stone” must have some sort of effect on our lifeblood, and consequently human health. As if this were not enough, it has also been associated over the years not just with the blood of the Gorgons, but also with the blood of Christ, as a result of which it was said to have curative powers and the ability to repel all evil. Paracelsus described the effects of coral as being to ward off detrimental thoughts, nightmares, apparitions and melancholy. It was said to drive out both the evil eye and the Devil, which has led to the long tradition of wearing coral-studded amulets – as often seen on Baroque paintings of infants, for example.
Some coral pieces
Diopside
green-yellow, blue
Finland, India, Madagascar, Myanmar, Austria, Sri Lanka and USA
5 – 6
Virgo
The Ancients believed diopside was the magical remains of a star which had fallen from Heaven to Earth, and that it supported processes of letting-go.
Some diopside pieces
Garnet
Garnets have been prized jewellery stones since antiquity. According to ancient myths of sacred garnets, the stones were said to have the power to glow spontaneously from deep within themselves. Not least because of this, they were designated as “Karfunkel” – carbuncle – in the Middle Ages.
What is indisputable, however, is that garnets are distinctive due to their beautiful refraction of light, and their brilliance. The stones can be found in several different colours, some of which are particularly rare, and highly valuable as a result. The most valuable variety of garnet is the delicate to mid-green demantoid, whose name is derived from its diamond-like lustre, and not without good reason. The group also includes the dark-green garnet found in Kenya and Tanzania as tsavorite. This stone is captivating thanks to its extraordinary and intensive green tone. The reddish-violet variety of almandine garnet, whose colouring comes from aluminium and iron, is also highly-prized, and by far the best-known face of garnet. Grossular, rhodolite and hessonite are also part of the garnet family.
Garnet deposits are frequently to be found in magma rocks, or – as in Austria – in rocks such as gneiss or mica slate, which have evolved under high pressure and at high temperatures.
USA, Germany, India, Madagascar, Norway, Austria, Switzerland, Sweden, Australia, Nepal, Thailand, Sri Lanka and Brazil
6,5-7,5
January
Aries 21 March – 19 April
Leo 24 August – 23 September
Scorpio 24 October – 22 November
Garnet is highly-prized and sacred in Indian culture and in Buddhism; in India, it is considered “the fire of perpetual transformation”. Even Hildegard of Bingen used garnets, based on the belief that they were said to have a healing effect, of strengthening the heart.
Some garnet pieces
Grandln
The German-language expression “Grandln” is used to describe the use of the canine teeth of wild animals, usually those of stags, in jewellery. Hunting trophies have been worn as jewellery since time immemorial. At our workshop, we are also happy to process the Grandln of our hunting customers, continuing the age-old tradition of hunting jewellery – interpreted in a contemporary way, in accordance with our company philosophy. Customers’ wishes in this field are as individual as the customers themselves, and we look forward to helping you realise your projects at any time.
Some Grandl pieces
Heliotrope
The name of this dark-green stone, whose red speckles result from iron oxide depositions, translates from the Greek term for “solstice”. According to ancient mythology, it was believed that heliotrope created a connection between human beings and the world of the gods, as it was associated with the sun. The long tradition of producing signet rings with armorial engravings using heliotrope endures to this day. When doing this, the coat of arms in question is either created in classic, back-to-front style, to be used as a seal, or cut into the stone in show view.
India, Australia, Brazil, China and USA
Quartz
6,5-7
Aries, Virgo, Libra
Heliotrope played an important role in ancient astrology, and was believed to assist with powers of self-healing and afford courage in decision-making.
Some heliotrope pieces
Iolite
Scandinavian legends tell of how this violet-blue stone was used by Nordic seafarers to navigate on cloudy days. The sailors were said to have used thin slices of iolite as the first traditional polarisation filter, in what became known as the “Viking Compass”. Since proven by experimental archaeology, the principle is the equivalent of that used in the twilight compass, which continues to be used in aviation at higher latitudes. With this device, polarised light in the atmosphere can help localise the sun when it is concealed behind the clouds. Although its colour is sometimes reminiscent even of sapphire, beautiful clear qualities are extremely rare.
Brazil, India, Madagascar, Myanmar, Norway, Sri Lanka and USA
7-7,5
The properties of iolite described above make it easy to understand why, in Nordic legend, iolite amulets were said to have the capacity to lead lost sailors to the sun, and consequently safely home. To this day, it is viewed as a stone of clear vision, and to counter fears and stress.
Some iolite pieces
Jade
Jade is one of the oldest cult stones, and plays a key role in almost all the world’s great cultures. Due to its extraordinary toughness, the material was used for weapons and devices in prehistoric times. The first objets d’art to be crafted out of jade were already being produced during the Palaeolithic Age. Thanks to its rich deposits of the stone, a veritable jade culture evolved in China, and the artistry, ethics, philosophy and mythology surrounding jade reached its highpoint. To this day, people in China believe in its healing powers and revere it as a bringer of good luck.
Because jade is one of the world’s toughest materials, it can only be cut using diamond-tipped tools. The flattering shine that makes jade so unique is only produced by careful polishing. The stone’s natural colour spectrum ranges from white, a delicate yellow and lavender violet, through to green, brown, grey and black. The most popular – and expensive – colour variety is what is known as “imperial jade”, whose vibrant emerald green tones make it comparable with gold in value. In pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, jade was even more highly-prized than the valuable precious metal gold itself.
Myanmar, China, Japan, Kazakhstan, Mexico and Russia
6,5-7
October
Ancient Chinese tradition has it that jade symbolises the five essential virtues of wisdom, righteousness, humility, compassion and courage. Jade is said to bring longevity – even immortality if you are very lucky – and stands for the feminine, beauty and nature in Chinese culture. Jade is also revered as a magical stone in other cultures, however. It is often used as a burial gift, for example, or worn as protection from evil spirits. Even in Mesoamerican culture, jade reached a very special position, being used as a stone to heal the kidneys, in sacrifices and as a tribute to the Gods.
Some jade pieces
Jasper
Jasper was already being used to produce tools in prehistoric times. Highly prized by both the Ancient Greeks and Romans, it is also mentioned in the Bible, when it is described as one of the twelve stones to adorn Jerusalem’s city walls in the Book of Revelations. It also makes an appearance in the Song of the Nibelungs, worked into the hilt of Siegfried’s sword. Thanks to its diverse colour spectrum, numerous other stones have been – falsely – attributed to jasper, and traded in its name, over the centuries. It is very rare for the stone to occur in a single colour; it is usually dotted, mottled or striped, and multicoloured. A number of astonishingly large stones have been processed over the years. One of the best examples is the Kolyvan Vase, displayed at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg: this stone is five metres by three metres in size, and weighs around 19 tonnes. In the jewellery sector, jasper is mainly used for cufflinks nowadays, as well as there is a long tradition of processing it for signet rings.
Egypt, Australia, Brazil, India, Canada, Kazakhstan and UruguayM
6,5-7
March
Aries
Jaspers is said to encourage steadfastness and willpower in the wearer, and to lend inner calm.
Kunzite
pink-violet, mauve
Brazil, Afghanistan, Madagascar, Myanmar, Pakistan and USA
Spodumene
6,5-7
February
Libra, Pisces
Some kunzite pieces
Kyanite
blue, blue-green, brown
Brazil, Kenya, Myanmar, Austria, Switzerland, Zimbabwe and USA
Kyanite
4 – 4.5 (lengthwise), 6 – 7 (crosswise)
March
Aries
Kyanite is said to help the wearer leave old patterns behind, and to foster decisive, effective action
Some kyanite pieces
Labradorite
This charmingly iridescent stone was named after its original discovery site, Canada’s Labrador Peninsula, where it was first found in 1770. The stone’s metallic lustre makes a highly lively impression, due primarily to the flashing blue-green colour effects it produces with movement. This not only lends the stone a highly modern appearance, but also makes it beautifully timeless. Thanks to its neutral colouring and subtle shimmer, Labradorite is often highly valued in the field of everyday jewellery. Despite its high adaptability – comparable to its relativeMoonstone – this stone has an unmistakeable character, lending it a very special radiance.
Canada and Madagascar
6-6,5
Aquarius, Cancer
Labradorite is said to foster intuition on the one hand, while strengthening the sense of reality on the other. It is also said to inspire creativity and fantasy.
